This article was taken from the April issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by subscribing online
Encourage simplicity
For a Michelin-starred eatery, Ristorante D'O is homely rather than luxurious. Located 25km outside Milan, it seats only 40 diners at a time. The cook (he refuses to be called chef) Davide Oldani set out to update the traditional Italian trattoria in 2003. During the process, he re-examined every step of the restaurant business.
The result combines innovative cost-saving procedures with a remarkable dining experience.
Oldani started with the ingredients, deciding that sourcing locally and seasonally would keep costs to a minimum -- he offers lunch for €11.50 (£10). Another sizeable operating cost for restaurateurs is replacing broken crockery, so Oldani designed his own range of super-durable chinaware and glasses. He also shaped the wineglasses so diners could drink without throwing their heads back, allowing them to maintain eye contact across the table.
Oldani's other design innovation is his replacement of standard cutlery with a crossover between a spoon and a fork that also has a cutting edge. Costs are reduced as there are fewer items to wash.
One principle underlies all these customisations: "Simplicity is at the base of our strength," Oldani says. "It makes us accessible." Accessible, that is, up to a point: Ristorante D'O has a seven-month waiting list. And don't try to book online - it doesn't have a website. That would just increase the bill.
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This article was originally published by WIRED UK