This article was taken from the February 2012 issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by subscribing online.
Jean Ghika, UK and Europe director at Bonhams auction house, explains what to look for to tell the bling from the tat.
Identify the carat and age of gold
First, look for a UK hallmark, with a date letter, a sovereign's head and a number -- "375", for example, stands for 375 parts of gold per 1,000, or nine-carat gold. "If it's a new piece with no marks, it's worth asking some questions," says Ghika. A hallmarking book will help, and signatures from famous houses such as Van Cleef or Cartier are useful indicators of added value.
Authenticate precious stones
"It's important to have a gemological certificate stating that a stone comes from a particular region and it doesn't have any enhancement," says Ghika. If you're buying diamonds, make sure you have a certificate that assesses clarity and colour. Use a loupe magnification device to examine a piece for any marks, solder work or repair -- and to check there are no stones missing.
Invest in 20th-century pieces
"You need a lot of in-depth knowledge to buy stones and jewellery solely for investment purposes," says Ghika, but certain styles are likely to improve in value. "Trends are currently moving away from the Victorian era and towards 20th-century design. Look out for good quality art deco pieces, and 40s and 50s cocktail jewellery."
This article was originally published by WIRED UK
