How to cook with dirt

This article was taken from the July 2013 issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by <span class="s1">subscribing online.

Toddlers are the boldest epicures -- their insatiable desire to eat earth is becoming the latest hot culinary trend around the world. Chef Toshio Tanabe, owner of trendy Tokyo restaurant Ne Quittez Pas, has invented an entire menu using soil that helps us get back to our roots. Here's how it's done.

Source and prepare your ingredients

At his restaurant, Tanabe serves up only natural soil that has been tested by Proto-leaf, a company that makes organic compost. "That's to make sure it's healthy and hasn't been contaminated," says Tanabe. "The best source is deep in the ground and close to the mountains." Sterilise it in the oven at 200 degrees celsius for 15 minutes.

Use soil to create a base for dishes

Put the soil into a large cooking pot, and add double the amount of water. Stir, then let it stew for half an hour. "The scent of the soil -transfers to the water and creates a broth," says Tanabe. Sieve this several times, then strain through cloth.

As the liquid cools, add a little gelatine for "a jelly-like base with a hint of soil".

Be imaginative with the menu Tanabe uses soil to create dishes as diverse as salads and gratins -- the key is to surprise your diners. "Try making a potato and onion soup, and add soil with fresh truffle," suggests Tanabe. "Or stew fish in the soil, then add rice and butter to make a risotto. You can also make soil-flavoured ice cream."

Think like other cultures Although eating dirt is a new concept in modern western dining, it has a long and venerable history, says Tanabe. "In Japan, pregnant women would traditionally eat soil for the nutrients; in parts of Africa and South America, there's a custom of eating soil among women living in mountains."

This article was originally published by WIRED UK