Tested: in the pit to find the best barbecues

This article was taken from the June 2014 issue of Wired magazine. Be the first to read Wired's articles in print before they're posted online, and get your hands on loads of additional content by <span class="s1">subscribing online.

How we tested

Tom Adams, founder and head chef of London barbecue joint Pitt Cue Co, and author of Pitt Cue Co: The Cookbook, grilled up a pile of finest onglet (also known as hanger) steak on three domestic barbecues. Tested on a freezing February morning at Paddington fire station and assisted by the London Fire Brigade, each design was assessed on aesthetics, functionality and the quality of the cooking. Adams rated each steak based on the time taken to cook and the result: "Onglet steak will be dry and tough if cooked badly," he says. "There's not much margin for error, making it the perfect cut to test the grills' performance."

Daniel Boone wood pellet smoker

"A completely different way of cooking," says Adams. This wood pellet smoker has a thermostat, LCD display and feeder that burns fuel separately, creating heat and smoke in the main cavity. "It is amazingly simple to use, and great for smoking meats and slow roasting, though indirect heat isn't as good for grilling." £695

WIRED Effortless smoking; computer control; capacity

TIRED Indirect heat only; expensive fuel

Big Green Egg

Based on an ancient Japanese oven, this ceramic design has an airtight cooking chamber and sealed fire box, making it, says Adams, "supremely insulated, easy to light and versatile."

Controlling the heat and the lid-down cooking takes practice, but it was the fastest to cook the steak and retains more moisture than a standard grill. One load of charcoal can cook for 24 hours. £675

WIRED Superior control; fuel-efficient; seriously hot

TIRED Takes practice to use; quirky design

Napoleon LE3

As Adams put it, "this is a big, fun, footballer's wife of a BBQ". Brimming with high-tech extras, it boasts an extra-hot infrared griddle, five burners and good heat control. "It's the hottest grill on test," says Adams, "but with so many moving and electronic parts, I imagine something will go wrong with it."

The charcoal/gas option is versatile, but it's more Florida Keys than rural England. £999

WIRED Bling looks; huge capacity; lots of features

TIRED Expensive; over-complicated

This article was originally published by WIRED UK