Georgia's disastrous 2008 war against Russia left Moscow-backed separatists firmly entrenched in South Ossetia and Abkhazia and forced thousands of Georgians from their homes. But one year after the Russians withdrew from positions deep inside Georgia, the territorial disputes are no closer to a peaceful resolution: Separatist Abkhazia, which is recognized only by Russia, Nicaragua, Venezuela and the Pacific island of Nauru, held presidential elections this weekend.
But there are a few bright spots. After Georgia's civil war in the early 1990's, hundreds of thousands of internally displaced people were basically left to fend for themselves. Georgia was a corrupt, dysfunctional state that had few resources to cope with the aftermath. Today, Georgians displaced by the recent fighting live in neat, orderly settlements (pictured here) that dot the landscape of central Georgia; roads and bridges destroyed in the fighting were quickly repaired; Georgia's small military is even planning to send a contingent to Afghanistan next year. Georgia still struggles under a crippling economic embargo by Russia, but it is far better than shape as a country than it was a decade and a half ago.
Still, the postwar scene can be heartbreaking. Not far from the boundary with South Ossetia is the village of Ergneti. After the Russian army swept into central Georgia, they were followed by "irregulars" -- Ossetian paramilitaries who engaged in a spree of arson, looting and murder.
Georgians living here received compensation to rebuild their homes, but their lives have not returned to normal: There is still sporadic gunfire in the buffer zone between Georgia and South Ossetia, and many families are reluctant to stay.
Georgian hospitality persists, even in the aftermath of war. In the ruins of one house, we are treated to a lunch of fresh cheese, ripe tomatoes and newly harvested grapes -- all washed down with a bit of homemade wine and chacha (Georgia's answer to grappa).
Still, an enduring peace seems more elusive than ever. These young boys are playing army in a village on the boundary with South Ossetia.
[PHOTOS: Nathan Hodge]
