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Review: Panasonic NN-SD688S Microwave Inverter Oven

Are you the Anthony Bourdain of microwave cooking? Better pick up one that cooks with an inverter — your zapped nachos will come out better than just borderline edible — they'll actually be delicious.
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Rating:

7/10

WIRED
A de-icing wonder. Dedicated turbo defrost button made short work of our ice disks — which turned out to be waffles. Attractive stainless stainless steel body. Big oven cavity (1.2 cubic feet) will hold everything from a small bird to a fleet of Hot Pockets. Relatively cheap. Dedicated keep-warm button for soups and gravies.
TIRED
Reserve some counter space 'cause this 12-x-20-x-16-inch nuker's gonna take up a lot of it. Loud. No interior light when door is open. Previous Panasonic inverter ovens have a bad habit of failing just outside of warranty (1 year).

To hell with the slow food movement — when you're drunkenly stumbling home at 3 a.m. and all you want is some overly processed Velveeta on a bed of nachos, there's no better culinary workhorse than the microwave.

While it can't match the cook quality of convection ovens, Panasonic's new 1,300-watt wonder will still quickly infuse week-old pizza slices with a deliciousness you never knew they possessed. Best of all, it'll handle more nuanced meals too. This inverter oven uses what Panasonic lewdly describes as "targeted soft penetration" to help prevent burnt edges and undercooked centers when slow-cooking your paellas.

Equally nifty is the unit's onboard sensor, which eliminates the need to set a specific time when cooking or reheating certain dishes. Once steam is detected, the oven lets out two beeps and displays the remaining time based on the amount of condensation. While good for your average baked potato or bowl of oatmeal, this of course won't work for raw or uncooked food or anything frozen.

For the latter category of vittles, what you will get is an enviable defrosting setting, which gradually and consistently lowers the microwave power over time. This translates into near-instant spoonability for ice cream (and spreadability for rock-hard butter sticks).

Panasonic even makes the dubious assertion that its oven won't rob your meals of essential nutrients while pounding them with magical microwave energy. Admittedly, this is hard to test. But we will say we could practically taste the riboflavin in Jimmy Dean's Pancakes & Sausage on a Stick.